My First AT Hike: Charlie’s Bunion
When I started hiking in earnest several years ago, the Appalachian Trail (AT) became sort of a mythical beast to me. I’ve read about it (Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods I can’t recommend enough) and I’ve heard a lot about it from my sister, who has hiked sections of it. She even knows a few folks that have hiked its entire length from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mt Katahdin, Maine. It was something I couldn’t quite fathom, the enormity of it all.
It has occupied my mind for some time now. Could I actually hike the whole thing? How could I attempt it? But like every great adventure, you have to take the first step. After two years of regularly visiting Great Smoky Mountains National Park, I finally made my first real venture out onto the AT this past weekend (July 11th).
The 4 miles of the AT from Newfound Gap to Charlie’s Bunion is probably the busiest section of the trail in the park. For one, it’s a very manageable day hike at just a little over 8 miles out and back. For another, Charlie’s Bunion is an amazing lookout affording views that must be seen to be believed. In addition, other than Clingman’s Dome (the highest point in the park), this section of the AT is also the only length that penetrates the 6000 ft elevation barrier. All of these things make this hike quite attractive to hikers of all skill levels.
On a cool Saturday morning, we drove up to Newfound Gap, watching my car’s outdoor thermometer drop from 75 degrees in downtown Gatlinburg all the way down to 62 degrees at the Gap. The weather called for possible showers, but that is the norm for the Smokies in July. At altitude (over 3000 ft), you can get a mix of clouds, rain, wind and thunder on any given day, but it never panned out that way for our hike.
The trailhead for the AT is at the northern end of the Newfound Gap overlook parking lot, just above the restrooms. Be prepared for going uphill for a while. The trail starts at just above 5000 ft and for the next almost 2 and a half miles, rises above 6100 ft. When you reach the Boulevard Trail split, you’ll begin your fairly steep descent of the last mile and a half or so to Charlie’s Bunion.
The AT Trailhead at Newfound Gap

During the first two miles, I was amazed at the lush vegetation even at high altitude that adorned the trail. Ferns were abundant, along with rhododendron and the moss and lichen were thick wherever there were rock outcroppings. To say that it was humid should really go without saying. If you hike anywhere in the Smokies, you would be hard pressed to find a day when it wasn’t humid. The park is practically a temperate rain forest and the reason its flora and fauna are so remarkable is the abundance of water.
Be prepared for walking uphill

Just after the Boulevard Trail split, you’ll pass very close to the highest hiking shelter (5900+ feet) on the AT at Icewater Springs. This is a nice place to check out and even stop for a snack. During our hike, we arrived at the shelter well before noon and it was unoccupied. If you hike later in the afternoon, please be mindful of backpackers and thru-hikers who might be setting up camp for the evening.
The Icewater Springs Shelter sits in a blackberry bush filled glade. Near the beginning of August, the berries will be ripening and bears have been known to frequent the area, so just be aware. After passing the shelter, you’ll come upon a pipe where an actual spring is located. If you have a filtration system or water purifier, you can refill your water supply at this point. For about the next half mile, you will descend a very wet and rocky trail continuing on toward the Bunion. During rainy periods, this section will be almost like walking down a creek bed.
Icewater Springs Shelter

About a third of a mile before you reach the short spur trail that proceeds out to Charlie’s Bunion, you’ll walk along a bald ridge that will afford you panoramic views of the Smokies on both sides of the trail. You can also see Charlie’s Bunion from the this area. During our hike, we came upon a patch of Turk’s Cap Lilies here as well.
Turk’s Cap Lilies on the Trail

Charlie’s Bunion is reached by a short and very narrow spur trail. During busy periods, you may see from 30 to even 50 people in the vicinity, so be patient. It is a very popular spot. The actual “bunion” is a large rock outcropping that requires you to climb to a little to a perch on the top. Since the Bunion is exposed and the drop offs are severe, be VERY careful if you bring youngsters to this overlook. Be patient if you want to see the view from atop Charlie’s Bunion, and don’t camp out too long. Take your pictures and make room for the next viewers.
As for myself, I’m not petrified by heights, but I do get a little vertigo when in close proximity to vast expanses and drop offs. The Bunion is one of those spots that can rarely give me knots in the stomach and the peculiar dizzy sensation. It’s an amazingly beautiful overlook, but seeing so many people tempting the fates made me nervous. We stayed long enough to eat our lunch and then started our hike back.
Charlie’s Bunion

The hike overall is pretty strenuous but certainly can be handled by even the novice hiker. Take plenty of water as always as well as some food and you’ll be sure to have a great time. If you take a little extra time, you will see an incredible variety of mushrooms and fungi along the trail, especially in some of the pine forest sections where spotting them is easy. Even in July, the wildflowers were plentiful and the showy Turk’s Cap Lilies provided an occasional surprise along the way. If you ever hike a section of the Appalachian Trail, probability says you’ll be most likely to hike this one. I doubt you will find a better example of the AT’s beauty and majesty.
Mushrooms are Plentiful

To view the other photos from my weekend in Smokies, check out the photo album Charlie’s Bunion.





























